Those thoughts were running in my mind while we were about to leave that place and were pushed aside by the sweet sound of fellows chanting, ‘Om Namah Shivay ... Har-Har Mahadev...’

Om Namah Shivay   Har-Har Mahadev…

ॐ नम: शिवाय । हर – हर महादेव ।।

 

So we take one final close look at this mystic South face and proceeds for Mansarovar Parikrama. We briefly halted at Hore to replenish our stocks of vegetables for the next three days. It’s almost 90 kms from Darchen to Qugu and offers some great views of nearby mountains and the splendid lake Mansarovar. The road is of gravels and travels along the banks of Lake Mansarovar and the view from the bus was just stunning.

At 4550 mts, it’s the highest fresh water lake in the world and as big as far as the eyes can see. Kailash lies to the north of it and Rakshas tal, just separated by a thin stretch of land, lies to the west. The color of the lake keeps on changing with the day and the reflection of the sun, stars, clouds and Mount Kailash, it keeps the beholder spellbound. 

The lake is 90 km in circumference with almost the same depth in meters. The lake changes its mood with passing hours: Placid now, tempestuous the next. The water of the lake may be freezing now and pleasantly warm next. We reached the camp at Qugu at around 12 hrs. The first thing we did was taking bath in its holy waters that was relatively warm as compared to our last bath and then had a good lunch. The evening time was spent in exploring surrounding areas and the lake itself.

It’s a unique landscape totally barren with vast planes and scattered mountains, the terrain is rough and here you can spot big Tibetan dogs; silent at days and alarmingly aggressive at nights. The place provides excellent opportunity for meditation and Yatris have one full day along with half the day they arrive to enjoy their stay at the banks of the sacred lake. 

The accommodation is very good and permanent having proper Indian style toilets, there aren’t any bathrooms and who needs it by the way, having one infinitely big open divine pool. We started our next day too bathing in its holy waters, though waited for the day to progress, to allow its temperature to rise by few degrees. There is a proper elevated platform for performing Havan and in our group; it was performed in Shastriji's guidance. Shiv Arti and a photo session followed suit. It was indeed a very special Havan with Mount Kailash in front overlooking Mansarovar. The weather was clear and slightly cooler at 12-14 deg. The rest of the day was spent in eating and enjoying Shastri Sangeet. 

In the evening I took a little hike with Mr. Sahu, a fellow from Odisha who works abroad and Vivek to a surrounding plateau from where it’s possible to see the great lake in its full splendor. Many land Cruisers were passing on a nearby gravel road leaving a trail of dust following them for miles, the pattern was just amazing and a photographer’s delight. Those Land Cruisers were mostly carrying tourists on Mansarovar Parikrama and to Taklakot. We could see our camp far below and there were many big wild dogs around, they looked a bit intimidating and were all black but to our rescue quiet at that time. We took some photos and came back as it was getting dark and temperature was falling rapidly, also ferocious winds that always sweep this landscape convert to mini storms at night.

It’s believed that some divine light strikes the lake every night around 3 a.m., to our despair the weather was not so clear and we couldn’t see it. One can spot many caves along the banks of this lake. It’s believed that they are used for meditation for thousands of years and if one is lucky enough can still find some sage meditating there. That’s how our two days spent on its banks.